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Perched on a rugged spur of rock overlooking the dunes of Cardigan Bay, Harlech is a town defined by its dramatic topography and dual character. Most of the town’s older stone terrace housing and local shops sit on the high ground around the 13th-century castle, while the lower coastal plain, known as Morfa Harlech, stretches toward the sea with its extensive sandy beach and the links of the Royal St. David’s Golf Club. Living here involves navigating the "twisting" inclines of the hillside - including Ffordd Pen Llech, which holds the title for the steepest street in the UK - but the reward is a standard of light and a mountain-to-sea vista that is rare even for North Wales. It feels very much like a working community rather than a resort, with a primary school, a steady local train connection on the Cambrian Coast line, and a sense of quietude that remains even during the peak of summer. It is a place where the weather is a constant presence, blowing in off the Irish Sea, but for those who value being within walking distance of both a National Nature Reserve and the foothills of the Rhinog mountains, the practical trade-offs of the steep terrain are easily overlooked.